I am a new owner of a 2022 Vilano 385rd and I have a question. The inverter that powers the fridge keeps switching from DC to AC the right back to DC. This happens every 1 to 15 seconds. The bars are all lit up on the DC side and one bar is lit on th AC side when it clicks on. Is this normal? The fridge is working.
Surprise the dealer is not returning my calls.
Welcome to the group and congrats on your new to you Vilano! I will defer to one of the other folks in here to answer your inverter question as mine came without due to our election of gas / electric fridge.
Thank you. I like the fridge but I am concerned about the inverter I can hear it switching at night as it is under the bedroom.
Hi AzVilano, we have a Beacon with a residential fridge so we have the standard 1000W inverter Vanleigh supplied with that fridge option. The inverter that we have is the Magnum Dimensions CSW1012 model.
Sounds like you have different inverter from the ones Vanleigh was originally installing. Can you share a picture or the make and model. That will make it easier to troubleshoot, since they aren’t too complicated. The Magnum inverters do have a display that will show error codes if there are issues.
I have the manual for that inverter, but we can’t upload and share documents, only photos.
Stuart
3 posts were split to a new topic: File Section / File Upload
Thank you Stuart for the reply. The inverter is a 1000ps Plus by On BoardSolutions. The system status displays “SYSTEM NORMAL” I assume that it is the transfer switch that keeps switching it over to “DC to AC Output” then instantly back to “DC Input Level” I am concerned about the switch failing as it is constantly switching back and forth. I took pictures and a short video of it but I don’t know how do down load them onto this forum.
Haven’t heard of that inverter. This is the link to the manual of the Magnum inverter. I was able to upload it after Ryan made some changes to the file section of the forum.
I think I found the manual for the inverter model you mentioned here - 1000ps Plus by On BoardSolutions .
Does yours look similar to the diagram below? When on AC (shore power) the inverter isn’t really in use and the AC icon should be lit under input power. If not on shore power the inverter needs to draw from the DC battery bank to provide AC power to the fridge connected to the inverter which would be indicated by the DC icon being lit up.
Is this constant switching occurring while connected to shore power? When it is inverting (DC lit) what does the DC to AC output graph (fig 1) show as well as the DC input level indicated (fig 3) ?
If it’s switching from AC to DC it thinks it lost shore power somehow. Might want to check the wiring connections to make sure nothing has become loose and might be causing intermittent power. Also when this happens do you notice the fridge turning off/losing power?
That doesn’t sound right, either the power relay inside the inverter is getting flaky or there’s a loose connection somewhere. I’d first check all the connections and make sure they are tight, that includes both the bolts and crimps.
The image above is the correct diagram. The fridge is running, staying cold, and the lights are not flickering. The battery management system is not showing any errors. The blue AC light is on and the DC bars are all lit. When it flashes to DC the AC light turns green and the DC light comes on and is also green. Only one bar on the DC to AC Output lights up. It is only on for a second then the DC light goes dark and the AC light turns blue again. The cycle will start over in after 1 to 15 seconds. I took a video of what it is doing but I don’t know how to attach it. I appreciate the help
According to the manual the when in stand by mode the input power light for AC should be lit (blue) and the LCD screen should also be illuminated. When inverting the input power light for DC should be lit (green) along with DC to AC LED graph (1) indicating how much the load is. The DC input indicator (3) should have a number of LEDs lit indicating the battery level.
From your description it still sounds like the inverter thinks it’s losing AC and switching to DC, then switching right back. If you’re connected to shore power and the rest of the RV didn’t lose AC power, then it could be a faulty inverter or maybe loose AC wiring connections on the inverter.
The inverter function could be tested a few ways.
Connected to shore power - Inverter off (pass through mode)
Connected to shore power - Inverter on stand by
Disconnected from shore power - Inverter on stand by/ inverting mode
If you’re able to perform those tests and take a few pics during each, you should be able to add the pics to your reply post, either pasting the photo into the reply or using the upload button.
Thank you for your help. During the first test, with the shore power connected, when I turn off the power switch (6) the inverter continued clicking like a circuit breaker is clicking off and back on and the AC light is going dark every time it clicks. Sounds like the inverter is bad. The DC power going into the inverter is 13.7v. The AC power going into the inverter is 119v. The Output voltage is 119 when AC is light is on and 114v when it switches to DC to AC. The inverter keeps cycling even with nothing connected to the output side. The strange thing is, is that the LCD screen reads System Normal.
Not sure I was expecting that result if set to passthrough. Makes me think the AC connections on the inverter might not be secure or the inverter is faulty.
Might be a good idea to check the wiring connections on both the AC & DC side of the inverter to confirm they are tightened down and not loose which could cause intermittent current flow.
Curious if you tested the other scenarios where the inverter was on and connected to shore power but then you switch off the AC at the pedestal. Wonder if the result would be similar if it’s able to take the load and supply power to the AC output. Also what size and type battery bank are you using? Is it lead acid or LiPO4?
Inverter AC connections
Inverter DC connections
The connections are secure. Test 2 When I turn off the inverter while connected to shore power all lights on the inverter are off except the blue AC light which turns off and on as the inverter clicks. When I cut the shore power whith the inverter on I got 114v out of the inverter; 119v while connected to shore power. The batteries (SMF27DC H1) are new maintenance free lead acid batteries and their combined (parallel) voltage is 13.7v. I am concerned about the fridge. I would think the constant fluctuation of voltage 119v to 114v the inverter is supplying could damage the electronics in the refrigerator?
The inverter output of 114 VAC is within the specs listed in the manual (115 VAC +/- 10 V). You need to check the fridge specs to determine if 114 VAC is within its tolerance specs, but I would think it is since modern appliances are designed to support some fluctuation of voltage.
Just about every RV park we’ve been to has had fluctuating shore power voltages (104 - 128 VAC) so if you don’t have an EMS to protect the RV when it hits the extremes of that range, it’d be a good idea to get one. They offer protection against surges, over/under voltage, open ground or neutral and AC frequency. We have a hardwired version from Progressive Industries (EMS-HW50C), there are portable versions too.
Your batteries are probably around 80-100 Ah (960-1200 Wh) capacity each and in parallel give you about double 160-200 Ah, but lead acid should not be drawn down below 50% capacity as that will eventually cause issues. That realistically gives you about 80-100 Ah and depending on the loads, such as the fridge power would give about 5-6 hours of use.
Thank you Stuart you have been very helpful. Have a happy new year.
You’re welcome. Happy new year to you as well!
I am having the same issue with my 2022 39GBB. I also have the Truepower 1000ps. The fridge ice maker is switching on and off and the inverter is just clicking on and off as well. Perhaps a new inverter
Looks like it is the internal transfer switch on the Truepower inverter. I am going to order a new one. Any suggestions or go with the same as a replacement?
My inverter has as auto transfer switch near the inverter. When this switch senses shore power it will switch the load to shore power. When shore power goes away it switches back to inverter power. You may want to check if you have this near your inverter. They can get weak and start chattering or start switching back and forth doing what you describe.
