Grey and Black tank Electric & Manual Operation

Hey Guys, I have not yet gotten inside the belly of the beast yet but my grey tank valve is stuck at the open position. I don’t have the red led light on as it did before when I would open & close it. Black tank is working fine and the light comes on when I press the button to open it and the valve opens. I know the manual says it can be used in manual mode but no explanation of how to do it. Any suggestions for the grey tank not responding to the switch presses either open or close??
Thanks Ralph
2022 Beacon LKB

Hi Ralph, I’m assuming you think it’s open as you’re still seeing grey draining even with the switch in the closed position, would that be correct?

Access to the manual override is through the front storage bay. You’ll need to remove the wall panel to gain access to the behind the scenes area. Once there you should see two cut outs in the floor one for the black and one for the grey. You’ll be able to see a manual pull handle in that cut out that will allow you to operate the valve.

I’d suggest even before doing any of the above would be to check the 5 amp fuse located on the switch itself. It has a reset on it to reset the fuse right below the valve switch itself.

If the reset doesn’t work then you have the option of getting behind the storage compartment and activating the manual override. That would also be a good time to check the wiring on the back of the switches to make sure they’re not loose or have come disconnected either.

Hope this helps out!

Ok thanks Stuart, I will check it tomorrow if weather permits.

In addition to Stuarts suggestions, It is also very common for the pull handle to come out of the actuator due to the grenade pin falling off.

The clips that the pin go into are fairly thin and break often. Many will zip tie to keep the handle on the actuator.

This is an internet pic of the valve, pull and grenade pin and an additional photo when I found my pull was out of the actuator.

Thanks Ryan for the additional info and pictures. You guys are awesome. I’m glad that we have this forum it has been very helpful for me.

Well with a lot of frustrations and not really accomplishing the complete shut off of the grey tank valve I was able to see that the electric motor was working and taking the valve handle up and down but it wasn’t able to close completely. The red led on the switch is not working but the motor is moving the valve up and down. I noticed that the grey handle was catching on the nut just before being down completely. I am thinking that I will have to put a spacer between the valve and the geared shaft so that the grey T handle clears the nut that is preventing it from working properly. I do have another valve at the external drain that will shut off the flow of the water until I have the time to get in there again.
Thanks for the information and photos.

Interesting situation you found Ralph. At least the motor is doing the job. From Ryan’s pictures I wouldn’t think any of those nuts would be able to interfere with the handle fully closing. Curious if you were able to fully close the valve if you rotated the handle to clear the offending nut? If the valve won’t fully close and there’s nothing external interfering the valve blade could’ve encountered an obstruction in the pipe such as big food particles put down the drain and been caught at the lip and gasket where the valve seats when closed.

Good plan having the external valve at the sewer hose connection outlet. I’ve been using one of those for years after a bad experience with a blocked cable actuated blank tank valve. That was an unpleasant surprise! LOL I had to take apart the valve and replace the seals which wasn’t very difficult, but still not a fun process.

FYI I have a 320GK and had the same symptoms. Unfortunately owner’s manual was wrong as to access. Took to dealer as under warranty and access is from under trailer, where an access vent was about center of trailer just to the rear from the door of the wet bay.

The reconnected and all is good

Jon - did they miss creating the hole behind the wall to access it? I have a 34RLB (Beacon version of 320) and the black access sticks up above the floor and the gray has an access hole in the floor. It does take a reach to get into it from the top though. Glad they got it taken care for ya.

There was an obvious hole behind the wall for the black, found that quickly, saw a hole where factory said grey should be but had a bunch of stuff stuffed in there… factory indicated it’s probably under that stuff. However they also had access panels cut in the under tray which the tech showed me… he said much easier.

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That makes sense and below access would be much easier. Last I ziptied I had to grab a smaller set of hands to get in there.