Fresh Water Manifold?

Hey guys,

Forgive me I am not sure what the term is for this(see pic). I’m calling it a fresh water manifold. On the backside of the water bay panel is manifold with three ports coming off of it. I have a serious leak and from what I can see it may be a failed manifold. I have taped all threaded elbows and I still have a leak off one port. Can someone tell me what it’s called and/or where to get a replacement. I’d also like to get rid of the plastic junk(elbows) and replace with brass. Looks like they are 1/2” male to male threaded 90° elbows. Can’t seem to find them.

Thanks

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That looks like it could be the fresh water manifold if the front has valves to direct the water (city, winterize, pump) and a water heater bypass. Looks like it might be the old style plastic and not the all brass version Vanleigh switch to in later model years.

I recently replaced mine due to a busted valve handle. Details in this thread Broken water heater bypass valve. The manufacturer Anderson Brass Co, might have a replacement option for you if you follow the links for them in that thread.

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Thanks Stuart, you always come through!

You’re welcome. Be sure to take the time to label those water hose connections before you disconnect them as it’ll save you headaches when trying to reconnect them back up. :smiley:

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It’s looking like it’s a complete retrofit and I don’t know what the current connected lines are or how they run. I’m going to call Tiffin tomorrow and see if they have a schematic. I have a ‘19 Vilano 365RL.

Would you be able to get a better picture of both the front & sides of the wet bay connections? I could try and help figure it out with you.

Just need to figure out the connections for the following:

-City water in
-Water heater to & from
-Fresh tank fill
-Water pump in
-Cold & Hot fixtures
-Water filter (if equipped)

I labelled my backside connections in this pic so we should have starting point.

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I will post pics of the front and back when i get off work today. I spoke to Tiffin and gave them the VIN. They call it a brass dual valve no panel. Part #5138083 for $268. It’s an Anderson Brass part but of course Tiffin uses their own part numbers. I have a callback in with AB to find out their part number.

I’m attaching a pic of the front panel(all I have at the moment)

That helps a lot! That’s a B&B Nautilus P2 manifold. I was able to find the installation instructions that has some good information on the connections here: Nautilus P2 installation

Here’s a screenshot of the back of that panel with the connections detailed.

That would be a good reference regarding the connections and the parts used. You can replace the whole unit for around $200 HERE.

That might be an option to fix the leak quickly and take some more time to research the viability of switching to an Anderson style manifold for a little more at $250. I’m thinking, like you, a move to all metal connections is a better long term solution.

For reference, when I was in contact with Anderson Brass they gave me this info for Vanleigh manifolds:
The part number for my model is MANRV102-NP and they said it’s not listed on the ABCO website but is in stock for a cost of $255.49 (as of 9/27/2024)

Stuart

Did some more looking around and found the installation instructions for the P2, the previous link was for the P2.5 (not sure what the difference is).

Nautilus P2 installation instructions

Nautilus P2 repair instructions

Hopefully this should help out.

Hey Stuart,

Here’s the backside. Looks like you found the exact part. Thank you very much!

That picture definitely gives a clearer view. I took that pic and labelled the connections going off the installation instructions. I think that should get you a good starting point.

Couldn’t see where any connections were made to the water heater or how to bypass it. Do you have a bypass valve by the water heater separate from this water manifold?

P2 water manifold labelled

You might be able to source the busted valve/diverter from B&B possibly if you contact them.

The Anderson manifolds include the water heater bypass, so that might take some reconfiguration to include that in the Anderson manifold.

Hope this helps :smiley:

Stuart

Thanks nice pic, do you know the crimp ring size? I seem to remember a long time ago Sven on the Facebook group saying they are metric and not the standard 1/2” size stocked at hardware stores.

For the PEX (solid red and blue) you can use the 1/2" sharkbite crimp rings. For the flexible hosing, you’d need 18.5mm/ 22/32" Oetiker style clamps. I bought these 18.5 mm Oetiker clamps off Amazon and they worked perfectly for crimping the flexible hose.

I keep a collection of both the sharkbite 1/2" and the 18.5mm Oetiker clamps on hand.

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:+1: thank you!