Hi all the bedroom furniture has come off the wall in the last move
and appears to be wood screws attaching, to fix Im thinking of L brackets 2 top and 2 bottom on the inside of the draws or new holes with shorter screws and no nails ?
Suggestions thanks
My final thought for tonight is to attach them to the floor with l brackets as the Walls are paper thin any thoughts
I’d opt for securing them to the floor as that is a bit more substantial. I’d also attach from the inside of the dressers by removing the bottom drawers. Then it’ll be hidden once the drawers are put back in place and also secured.
Thanks Stuart as always yes floor is a definite securing point vs the wall, I’ll be using the l brackets to the floor. Heading south and hot where you at ?
Good idea IMO. We’re in CO at the moment and it’s about 90°, then we’ll be heading down to AZ once it cools down there for the winter.
You have the best idea Im heading back from Maine and the heat has been brutal. Mesa is a perfect idea for winter Thanks again Stuart for all your advise and knowledge
if you can locate a wall stud you could anchor one upper screw into that. I am pretty certain when I removed mine to get the washer and dryer into the bedroom, that some of mine were screwed into the wall stud because it drew down tight. I have a 2022 320gk. Another option in addition to the floor brackets is up high install 1 or 2 small butterfly toggle anchors into the wall. They make small ones. Mine had 4 screws ran into the floor through the frame of the dressers also.
Thanks do you have a picture of the butterfly toggle you have used as I also need to use them on my slides in my other post where the L brackets have fallen off
There are backer plates embedded within the exterior walls and sandwiched into the foam insulation. These plates serve as attachment points. Each floor plan has them located in specific areas where cabinets, grab handles, trim, and other components need to be securely fastened to the wall.
This photo was taken during wall construction at the Vanleigh factory, and you can see the backer plates distributed throughout the walls where those anchor points are needed.
I owned a 34RLB, and we had to remove the highboy dressers for warranty work. We were able to reinstall them successfully by fastening them back into those factory-installed backer plates.
Thanks Ryan really helps, are the backer plates aluminum Im getting concerned to put more fixings to the wall and not to just secure into the floor with l brackets, appears tiffin leverage wood screws which doesn’t appear to be a solution and as your both suggesting s better approach would be better
With the foam in the walls they might be difficult. Here is a kit with several options.
Thanks Shawn I have this issue and a slide bracket issue on another post and have been researching the below for in the wall, I am concerned adding anything into the wall as I don’t want to pull the whole wall off with movement
Hi Ryan
is there any way to tell if the factory did anchor the draw unit into the backer plates, as the screws look like wood screws thanks
You should be able to locate the plate with a magnet - they are thin so a strong magnet would work best. They didn’t put wood in the exterior walls but did use wood in the slide walls (pic below of slide box with wood backers).
I honestly doubt they used any different screws for the walls hitting the plates vs interior cabinets. There were buckets of screws in the plant (and on the floor - got several in my shoes and one into my toe) and to keep production streamlined they used the same screws but different lengths for everything.
I personally would not use any type of expanding molly anchor in a laminated RV wall. Unlike a house, an RV wall is a structural sandwich made up of the exterior fiberglass, aluminum framing, foam block insulation, and interior wall panel, all bonded together into one assembly. Each layer contributes to the overall strength of the wall.
Molly anchors are designed to expand inside a hollow cavity. In a laminated RV wall, they would instead expand into the foam core, potentially crushing the foam and concentrating stress in a very small area. Personally, I’d chase the factory backer plate or an aluminum wall stud than rely on an expanding anchor.
I’ve dealt with multiple delaminated RV walls and have seen quite a few at the Tiffin service center. For that reason alone, I’m very cautious about doing anything that unnecessarily puts localized stress into a laminated wall.
Thanks Ryan
Do you think the plate Is thick enough as the draw unit screws Did make a larger hole in the wall slightly, any suggestions on anchors I could use without adding stress to the wall thanks
when I cut the hole for my drier vent I caught the edge of one of those plates. it was about 1/16" thick sheet metal from what I recall.
You are right Shawn. I have a small pile of them somewhere that I kept when I had my flex repair. They removed them all from the wall at that time as my wall was stuffed with timber.
